Scotch Beef Masterclass at The Guinea Grill

If you are passionate about knowing where your beef comes from, there is nothing better than lunch with some people who really know their stuff. At a recent lunch hosted by Quality Meat Scotland I got to meet  Laurent Vernet, Scotch Beef Master. He is the font of all knowledge to do with Scotch Beef.

Scotch Beef Masterclass Quality Meat Scotland

Why Scotch Beef ?

Scotch Beef has a worldwide reputation of being one of the highest quality meats in the world. This is wholly due to the care and stringent quality requirements of meat production that results in this superior product.

Quality Meat Scotland has been running their world-leading quality assurance scheme behind Scotch Beef for 20 years. They are responsible for improving the efficiency and productivity of red meat production in Scotland. Scotch Beef is also the first red meat to be awarded the coveted European PGI status.

Scotch Beef is it is defined by the quality in origin. When you see the blue Scotch Beef rosettes and the PGI logo you can be sure that the beef you’re buying has been reared to the high standards required in Scotland and then slaughtered in an approved abatoir. Don’t confuse this with anything that says Scottish Beef as this is a completely different product. It could be meat imported into Scotland and processed and therefore not bred to the same stringent requirements.

Farmers and processors are regularly checked to make sure that they meet the high standards of care and welfare for the beef to be labelled Scotch.

About 82% of Scotland’s agricultural area is grass and rough grazing, not suitable for crops but perfect for cattle and sheep. This forage based livestock production system is an efficient way of producing protein as 1 kg of beef needs only 0.92 kg of protein suitable for human consumption.

Scottish beef farmers also help to manage Scotland’s landscape by allowing cattle and sheep graze, thereby helping to maintain many hill and upland habitats.

A Steak is Not Just a Steak

When you buy a steak or eat a steak, you don’t really think much about its origins or breeds. I am one of those people who like to ask where the meat comes from and most of the time, the restaurant doesn’t really know.

Scotch Beef Masterclass Quality Meat Scotland

About Cattle Breeds

Scotch Beef comes from mainly a few well-known breeds like Aberdeen Angus.  As the Aberdeen Angus are relatively small animals it’s usually crossbred with other species like Charolais and Limoussin, which increases yield and productivity.

Nowadays, due to more discerning customers restaurants there is a higher demand for rare breeds like the  Galloway and Highland. Unfortunately for us down in England, meat from these breeds are not readily available.

I was surprised to learn that there was no market in veal as there is no demand unlike what I saw in the Jura mountains where there was high demand for veal from male calves from Montbeliard dairy cattle.

Meat from Male and Female animals taste very different

One other thing that affects the taste of meat are hormones. Bulls, Cows, Steers (castrated), Heifers (never mated, under 3), Calves, Young Bulls (never mated) are all at different stages of maturity.

Meat from animals that had mated and had different levels of hormones like the Cow tastes acidic, a bit vinegary. Meat from bulls tastes metallic from the testosterone. In a taste test the QMS ran, young women liked the taste of meat from Young Bulls the best. Nature eh?

How Feed and Welfare Affects the Taste

Most beef in Scotland are grass fed as they have an abundance of grazing pastures. However in the winter some of the less hardy breeds are kept indoors when they are fed a diet of silage. Silage is made from dried grass and grass crops like corn and other cereals. These crops are harvested in the warm months and then stored as animal feed over the winter period.

Some animals are corn-fed to finish them off as this increases the size of the animal very rapidly that it produces meat that is tender but less flavour than grass fed cattle. This also changes the balance of Omega 3 and 6 in the meat.

Sometimes the cattle is fed draff which is a by product from whisky distilling. This has the effect of sweetening the meat.

The Aging Process Adds Flavour to The Meat

If you watch a lot of cooking program programs it like I do, you’d see chefs going on about 28 days matured beef. The length of the aging does not make it more tender as meat doesn’t get any more tender after 9 days as this is when it has reached 90% of maximum tenderness.

Further maturation does however increase the flavour in the meat as water evaporates, further concentrating the flavour.

There are two different types of maturation: dry and wet. Wet maturation is usually done in a vacuum packed and the meat only loses about 0.5% of its weight. Dry maturation causes a much bigger reduction in total weight, creating a more expensive product.

If you buy meat that has been wet matured, it releases water when you cook it and your steak will steam instead of fry.

The Tasting

At the lunch, we had a masterclass in tasting beef. The taste of beef is influenced by the juiciness, the flavour and tenderness.

Juiciness is about the sensation when you chew a piece of beef and varies depending on the right kind of fat in the beef. The fat in beef coats the mouth which creates the sensation of generating saliva, more juicy.

The flavour of beef is not dependent on the breed but more on the feed, how they were slaughtered and how long the meat had been matured.

Scotch Beef Masterclass Quality Meat Scotland

Photo by http://www.georgepowellphotography.com/

Laurent told us that a lot of red meat tastes about the same but it’s the fat from the marbling that actually gives it the distinct flavour. When buying a joint for roasting, do not be fooled into thinking that a joint wrapped with a lot of fat has a lot of flavour. It doesn’t. Only fat in the marbling and not fat on the outside gives beef its flavour.

As the first plates of meat appeared, we were told that these were all nine-day aged sirloin which came from a cow, a  young ball and a steer.

When comparing each steak  side-by-side it was easy to see the difference. The cow meat was tougher, with a darker red colour and bigger fibres.  The cow meat usually has wobbly muscles and the meat is firm and tough. Cow meat is a good one to use in burgers.

The steer steak, which has no hormones, had a pinker colour. The meat was softer, with no sourness.

The young bull was softer than the cow but it had very distinctive sour and metallic flavour. A young bull’s meat has very little fat, so very little flavour and this is best served with some sauces.

We then blind tasted a variety of steaks from different animals and with different maturity and ageing. Next we tried steaks that were matured for 16 and 27 days.

The 16 day Sirloin was my favourite as it was much softer, more tender and a lot more juicy with a rich beef flavour.

The 27 day aged was fed on silage therefore had more acidity but better than the 9 day one. It was probably a Charolais breed.

We then tasted a very mature fillet steak that been forgotten at the back of the fridge . This is extremely gamey with a very strong flavour and was really unpleasant.

We also tried a few different cuts including a heart. By this point we were finding it really difficult to differentiate one cut rom another.

Just when we thought that the never ending platters of meat had ended, the proper lunch of a roast sirloin was delivered. This was truly a meat lovers event.

I learnt a lot and will be asking even more questions of the supermarkets and butchers from now on.

Scotch Beef Masterclass

Photo by http://www.georgepowellphotography.com/

 

This event was hosted by The Guinea Grill a founding member of the Scotch Beef Club. You can learn more about Scotch Beef at the QMS website and you must get their free iphone app from iTunes. I use it to help me work out what times to cook my steaks. It even has an alarm built in to remind you to turn your steak.

Slow Food Kitchen was a guest of Quality Meat Scotland.

 

Donald Russell – More Than An Online Butcher

Pavé, that is a word that I know very well. Learnt it years ago when I was shopping for diamond jewellery and learning about different stone settings. Pave setting is when a lot of stones are set very close proximity to each other, with no metal showing, creating a smooth surface. I would never have associated that word with meat, let alone rump steak.

At a recent visit to the Donald Russell operations centre in Inverurie in Scotland, we were introduced to this cut of meat. A perfectly sculpted piece of meat sculpted from the centre muscle of the rum steak, the Pavé Rump. This cut has been trimmed of any fat or sinew and resembles a fillet steak but is much thicker than a normal rump steak you would find at your local supermarket.

Donald Russell online butcher Pave rump steak

Pave rump steak

Danny of Food Urchin fame and I arrived in Aberdeen on a uncharacteristically warm winter’s morning and were driven over to Inverurie where we were to undertake a Butchery Masterclass.

Donald Russell, the online butcher, has been selling meat for many years but mainly to trade and not retail customers. They have been supplying restaurants and hotels like the Grand Hotel in Monaco and Simpsons in the Strand. They also hold a royal warrant for supplying to Kensington Palace. Their business suffered during the BSE crisis in 1996, causing a rethink in strategy and repositioning. To diversify their business and reduce the reliance on a few trade customers, they decided to start a mail order business and this has now grown into the largest seller of meat online in the UK.

Donald Russell buys in their beef from a number of slaughterhouses in England, Scotland, Wales and Northern Ireland but their beef is not selected by breed, rather they buy the best tasting beef. This is dependant on feeding, breeding, husbandry and maturation which they do in house. They only buy in meat from audited farms and slaughterhouses. I expect they have similar accountability measures when they buy lamb, game and fish from other suppliers, but we didn’t have time to get into that.

Up to this point, my only impression of Donald Russell were the ads in newspapers, suggesting a large faceless corporation. It has never occurred to me to buy meat online as I like to see and touch what I am buying. I am also very geeky about the provenance of my meat and tend to now buy from the higher end butchers in London than the local supermarkets. One exception is a Scottish Aberdeen Angus farm, Hardiesmill, that I visited where they sell exceptional 100% Aberdeen Angus beef which they sell online in small quantities.

So, on touring the butchery, we were pleasantly surprised to find out that they are more like a massive butchers shop than a large corporate machine.

We were first shown into the room where they receive the ribs that are bought in. Racks and racks of prime beef, meat heaven. What hits you first is the smell of fermentation in the air but it’s a sight that will get any meat lover salivating. These are placed on racks and aged before they are cut up and sold. The level of aging can be seen by the level of oxidation on the surface of the meat and it gets darker as it ages. They use the dry aging method which allows moisture to evaporate which enhances the flavour of the meat. This aging process causes the total weight of a piece of rib to reduce, hence the higher cost of dry aged beef. Wet aging is when they age it in a sealed bag where evaporation is not possible, the weight remains the same which works out better for selling but not for the flavour.

Donald Russell online butcher beef maturation room

Next we were shown into the massive cold room where several rows of carcasses were hung. These carcasses are also know as “roastings” which is basically half a cow (or steer or whatever the technical term is.)

Donald Russell online butcher with Mark Farquhar Head Butcher

Mark Farquhar, Head Butcher

The main butchery floor was a bevy of activity with rows of butchers deftly demonstrating traditional butchery skills, carving away at racks of lamb, ox cheeks, slicing up steak, all with such speed and precision. Most of their butchers were obviously quite experienced and have been with them a number of years and noticably, quite a few were from Eastern Europe. The most experienced butcher(ess) was a lady, which I understand is quite unusual. They are talking about running butchery apprentice schemes to train up some young blood, which were noticably absent.

Donald Russell online butcher

In other parts, they were busy churning out pure beef patties for burgers and hand rolling pastry for sausage rolls. It might not be a corporate machine but the operation seemed like a a very well orchestrated dance. It also struck me that the staff were all happy and smiling and there seemed to be a family vibe of carmaderie.

By now, we were absolutely freezing as all those rooms were super chilled. Thankfully, our next stop was lunch in their warm test kitchen.

How to Cook Steak

Chef Eddie McDonald had prepared 3 pieces of Pave Rump for us to cook. Using the instructions in the Pave Rump instruction booklet, How To Meat Perfection, (which they supply with all purchases), we attempted to cook these to rare, medium and well done.

Steps to cook steak:

1. Make sure that the meat is at room temperature

2. Oil the meat, not the pan as the oil in the pan will burn too quickly

3. Make sure that the pan is super hot so that the meat sizzles when you place it down on the pan.

4. Cooking times : (this is for the thick cut Pave rump steak, other cuts differ)

  • Rare : 4 mins each side
  • Medium : 5 1/2 mins each side
  • Well done : 8 mins each side

5. On finishing, brush with melted butter

6. Rest the steak for as long as you have cooked it to allow the meat to relax and the juices that were forced out with the heat to migrate back to the centre of the meat, making it juicier.

In the meantime, Chef Eddie was cooking a few different cuts of steak; a fillet, a sirloin and a rib eye,  on a low temperature in the oven using a meat thermometer. I have always pan fried my steak and have never considered this method but the results were stunning. The meat is seared before being placed in a low temperature oven, at about 80C and cooked for about 2 hours, depending on the weight.

While waiting, we got to sample their fish cakes and amazing sausage rolls. These are the tastiest sausage rolls I have had and they were enormous too. We were also introduced to their range of ready to bake German breads, a product that Hans Baumann, their Swiss managing director found at a food show.

Donald Russell online butcher chef Eddie McDonald

The tasting: of all the cuts, the rib eye had the most flavour, helped along by decent marbling and a seam of fat through the meat. The pave rump was tender but since all the fat had been trimmed off, lacked a bit of flavour. Interestingly, the rare and medium cuts ate well but the well done piece was a total waste of time. Tough and horrible. Really not the best way to eat steak.

The fillet was tender but again, did not compare favourably when tasted with the other cuts as is a part of that doesn’t do any work, has no muscle and very little marbling. The fattier end of the sirloin was great.

We also got to sample their range of ready to bake German breads their new range of puddings. The lemon meringue was terrific.

Butchery Masterclass

After lunch, dressed in an added layer of a body warmer, we ventured back into the butchery. This is where it all got a bit more hands on and the fun began. Andy Grant one of the master butchers demonstrated how he would carve up a “roasting” into all the different cuts that we are more familiar with. (see video)

There was so much information to absorb about the style of butchery, the different steaks, etc. From the video above, you can see Andy breaking up the Roasting into the 4 main parts below and then these are cut into steaks.

  • The fillet
    • ladies steak, what a stupid name
    • chateubriand
    • fillet Tails
  • the sirloin
    • rump end which is seamed off to create Pave Rump steaks
    • vein end - skimmed off for sirloin steaks. The smaller end pieces are then sliced thinly and sold as minute steaks
    • tail end – sirloin with an added piece of muscle, not a true sirloin. Never noticed this before and is not the best cut of sirloin, take note when you next buy a piece of sirloin. Lower parts are used sold cubes or strips for dishes like stroganoff.
  • the prime rib
    • rib eye
    • rib trims, the meat between the ribs which are great slow roasted or boiled like in Pastrami
  • the rump
    • rump steaks
    • rump cap is usually cut into a roasting joint
    • the tafelspitz (an Austrain cut, traditionally boiled with vegetables as a quick meal, a recipe that was devised for the court of Franz Joseph I) This is where the uber trendy cut of Picanha steaks are cut from against the grain.

The other trendy new cut is the Flat Iron which is very popular in the US and has been increasing in popularity over this side of the pond. This is cut from the shoulder feather blade and Andy demonstrated this and it was super fiddly and looked really sinewy.

Out of the 30kg of Roasting, the resulting saleable meat is about 15kg. The waste meat is sometimes used in other products.

Danny and I then had a little competition cutting up steaks. This involved getting kitted out in a chain mail apron and chain mail gloves. Funnily, the chain mail apron resembled a chain mail dress from Burberry Prorsum that I had seen recently and just as heavy. So that’s where Christopher Bailey gets his inspiration from.

We had a choice of weapons, a butchers knife and were let loose on some nice hunks of beef. We had to slice them up to within 10g of 220g portions by eye. Watching the butchers do this with such speed, it didn’t seem too difficult but most my attempts were out by 50g. Not so easy, but Danny hit bullseye when he managed an exact slice at 220g and did a little victory jig. Seriously competitive that food urchin.

For our efforts, we got a little certificate but I would have loved to have had a go at breaking up a roasting than just slicing up steaks. Another time maybe.

Donald Russell’s Ready to Eat Range

So in addition to beef, they sell lamb, pork, game, fish and added value products like burgers, sausages, delicious sausage rolls and even puddings. We didn’t get a chance to talk about where the other meat, game are from but this seems to be a growing part of their business, with beef still making up about 60% of total sales.

In February 2012, Vestey Group, a privately held food company bought a majority stake in Donald Russell, signalling a possible shift in direction for them. Management has retained a stake in the company and have been told that their existing businesses strategies will be upheld. This might see a significant shift for Donald Russell using the synergies of Vestey Groups food businesses to expand their reach and market.

Our butchery day ended with a much greater appreciation of butchery skills and all the different cuts of meat and how muscles affect the flavour and how a steak eats. I was impressed by the skilled butchers and was pleasantly surprised at how artisanal the whole operation was, which is not reflected in Donald Russell’s slick sales brochures or website. I found out that they ship their meat after blast chilling it, in insulated boxes that can keep meat optimum for 72 hours. This will be a great way of buying beef to take back for my trips to Asia, as they can’t get decent steak out there. Will definitely do this for my next trip. Buying meat online? I think I might just be a convert.

Donald Russell online butcher

SlowFoodKitchen was a guest of Donald Russell’s.